Soweto Diaries

Think of it, anything and Soweto has it. A guy I know refers to Soweto as “that overrated township”. There was a time when I would have agreed with him. I have now thought about it and I agree with him with a lot of disagreement. I agree with him that when you have lived in Soweto for as long as he has, then the township is just overrated. What with inconsiderate neighbours with their shebeen business disturbing your peace and all else that goes with having a shebeen for a neighbour.

Apart from all that though, Soweto is having it. You name it, you think it, Soweto is having it. It has the only street in the whole world that boasts 2 nobel peace laureates. For those who may not be aware of this piece of history: Vilakazi Street, found in the Orlando West section of Soweto, was once the home of Nelson Mandela and of Archbishop emeritus Desmond Tutu. Well to be exact, the Arch’s home, has remained his home while the Nelson Mandela home has now become a national museum. If you were to treat yourself to a “Soweto Tour” (recommended for Sowetans too), you would be sure to walk this famous street. There are Sowetans who have never been to Vilakazi street, they are not planning to go there anytime soon and they don’t care. But still, they are having it - the street with the 2 nobel peace laureates. The only street of its kind.

Soweto is a peer of such big cities as New York and London - Soweto is having its own marathon. The Soweto marathon is now part of the elite South African running calendar. Very few Sowetans actually take part in the marathon and even fewer get involved with all that goes with hosting a marathon but hey - they are having it. To some, running this marathon and finishing it, is a feat of bravery only rivalled by the antics of one Chuck Norris. Every year since this marathon’s humble beginnings, Sowetans endure the traffic inconveniences as they try to bury their loved ones and neighbours or go about their regular weekend business. It is an international marathon and they are having it.

And then there is the golf course. Soweto Country Club, an 18 hole golf course (did I mention chanllenging?) carved out of a wasteland tract that was meant to be the buffer and dividing line, a no-man’s land between the blacks living in Pimville and the coloureds living in Kliptown and Eldorado Park. If you were to treat yourself to a round of golf (for less than fifty rand) and you were to take too much club for your approach shot on the first hole, then your ball would be found somewhere in Eldos (as Eldorado Park is affectionately known. Similarly, a hook (for right handers) or a slice (for lefties) from the 9th hole tee, would leave you having to talk very nicely to one of the Pimville property owners. With all of its beauty (mainly during summer) and its challenges (like the bull that ran onto the course away from the sharp knives of its assailants), it is a potential championship course and the Sowetans are having it. Most of the members of this country club are current and ex-caddies and others who were not allowed into or could not afford the “town” golf courses. The others are the newly empowered who want to fix their game before going to play the town courses. Some Sowetans don’t care much for the course, sometimes they use it as a short-cut to Eldos and some use it as a jogging terrain. There are times when some boys set up make shif goal posts (a pair of bricks each) down the fairway. Whatever the case, it is an experience to play this course and the Sowetans are having it.

Until recently the Sowetans flocked to South Gate mall for their month-end shopping. Now, there is the Maponya Mall right there in the heart of Soweto and for the Sowetans to patronise, which they do. I read somewhere that the country’s highest grossing “News Cafe” is right there in Maponya Mall. Sowetans no longer need to go to town for their shopping, they can do it right here at their own Mall. Previously Sowetans claimed “High Gate” near Putcotin but everyone knows it is way out of Soweto and closer to Riverlea. Maponya mall has been known to get flooded if it rained hard but it is a shoppoing mall to rival those in “town” and the Sowetans are having it.

Just this week, the Soweto Open, an ATP sanctioned international-standard tennis tournament, was announced. Allow me to let you into the secret behind this tournament. Years ago, the late Arthur Ashe, a negro who beat caucasians at their game, made the dream possible. Through his kindness, a complex of tennis courts, change rooms and a library were built for the people of Soweto. Out of this, the Soweto Open came to be. An international tennis tournament and the Sowetans are having it. I remember fondly the lengthy days during school holidays, spent at the Phefeni tennis courts. The new tennis complex is lightyears ahead of that and the Sowetans are having it. Can you imagine the Williams sisters slugging it out amidst the smoke and taxis of Soweto? Somewhere in Michigan is a man who played tennis as a boy in Soweto and earned a scholarship to the US where he now lives. It looks like when it comes to tennis and comrades, Soweto has been having it.

If you were to prowl the streets of Soweto properly, you would find that Sowetans have their own white residents too.

You name it, think it - they are having it.